OrchidSafari
Orchidsthat begin with 'P' - Phragmipedium
Moderator: Marilyn Light
April 10, 2002

[prechat handout]
Copyright 2002 Marilyn H. S. Light

Phragmipedium is a genus comprised of some 20 species of mainly terrestrial New World orchids ranging from Mexico through Central and South America. All species are listed under Appendix I, CITES, and thus their trade is tightly monitored between signatory nations. While some species grow near streams and in tussocks with the roots constantly bathed in fresh moving water, others inhabit steep slopes, likewise wet, but always well drained. Species grow at different altitudes and under varying light conditions. For example, Phrag sargentianum grows in shaded seeps while Phrag. caudatum is found in growing in the open, in moist humus or in thin soil over rocks. Some species such as Phrag besseae grow warmer although still preferring moderate shade while others tolerate warm to cool conditions. Wherever they grow over rock, the rock type is inevitably granite. Thus, they are growing in unbuffered or poorly buffered mineral soil, humus or muck. We know them for their handsome flowers and their relative ease of culture. Well-grown plants make very handsome specimens and should be divided only after careful consideration. Many plants seen at shows are still relative babies. Give them a few years of excellent culture and you will appreciate how flowers become more substantial and are produced in greater profusion as the plant matures.

There are relatively few species yet with the recent explosion of interest in this genus almost every species has been crossed with each of the others creating many new and interesting hybrids. Third generation hybrids are becoming quite common. Not all hybrids have fulfilled the dream of the hybridizer: Some have a tendency to produce seeds that are not necessarily the product of fertilization. Intermediate to warm growing and fragrant Phrag schlimii has soft pink blooms. When paired with fire engine red Phrag besseae, Phrag Hanne Popow, we get shades of pink, mauve, cerise and even some almost white blooms. Back crossing Hanne Popow with besseae, Phrag Saint Ouen can give a fuller, flatter bloom.

Some species such as Phrag caudatum bloom all at once with all buds opening simultaneously while others like Phrag longifolium bloom successively over a longer period. Branching is another feature expressed by certain species. We know that of the two forms of Phrag besseae the widespread, so called Peruvian form has a fuller pouch and more rounded petals. Phrag besseae var. dalessandroi from Ecuador has smaller, somewhat paler flowers, a narrow pointed pouch but it branches freely making for quite a show. As modern hybrids bloom out and mature, we see some delightful characteristics such as improved branch count (which affects the number of flowers open at one time), improved flower size and color.

One older hybrid, often seen as relatively small specimens, is the magnificent Phrag Grande (caudatum x longifolium). The one caution for a grower of either Phrag caudatum or Grande is that once the petals start to elongate, be certain that they do not prematurely touch a surface. If they touch the tabletop or bench surface, those wonderfully long spiral petals stop growing. The petals have been known to reach 80 cm (32 in) so it pays to look out for this one!! When Phrag Grande is crossed with the species longifolium, we get Phrag Mont Fallu. Some clones of this hybrid produce flowers having a 28-cm spread and 28 cm vertical spread as well. There have been 2 to 3 flowers on the younger plants shown but flower count could improve as the plants mature.

There are many recipes for success with Phrags but the one technique that seems to work the best is daily watering with copious amounts of fresh, deionized water or rainwater (leaving a bit in the saucer for those plants that prefer wet feet) and regular repotting to freshen the medium and keep the plant growing vigorously. Repotting is best done when plants begin new growths which is in Spring in the northern hemisphere. Phrags seem to respond to the lengthening day with a burst of growth. Most plants do well with a temperature differential of about 10F between day and night, bright filtered light, and regular doses of weak fertilizer solution applied when the plants are making new growths. Follow fertilizer applications with a deionized water flush a day later. You know that you are doing the right thing when there are no brown leaf tips and plants are producing up to a couple of new shoots each at once. Always take special care not to let water enter the fan of leaves as an inflorescence is developing.

MarilyninOttawa
Hello everyone. Welcome to the discussion which will revolve around Phragmipedium. Phrags have been discussed in many articles published in Orchids including August 1999, February 1990, April 1988, December 1992, June 1991, and October 1983. Some of these articles discuss culture and some hybridization. They are all excellent.

Phragmipedium is a small genus of some 20 species found from Mexico through Central America into South America. This illustration of Phrag. Grande, a hybrid, gives you an idea of how Phrags grow.

I grow some species and hybrids. Seed-raised plants are often more vigorous and some hybrids, especially so. Phrag blooms are not particularly long-lasting like some of the complex Paphs. Many Phrag species and hybrids bloom successively (sequentially) over many months so a plant is in flower quite a long time.

John_in_Arcadia_CA
I just opened a Sorcerer's Apprentice - 1 flower opened 3 buds showing as well as a branch. I took it for judging but it was screened even though the flower measures over 14 cm across. It is beautiful and very dark for the cross.

CJ_Orchidflowerchild
I can attest to that. Had a Phrag longifolium inflorescence that only ceased flowering because I cut it off. Had 15 or 18 flowers over a number of months. Each flower lasts about 2 weeks, but it holds two open at a time. The first of the pair opens, then a week later the second one opens. That plant now has 2 inflor. up and in bloom.

pecteilis_in_KY
Generally how long from seed to flower?

MarilyninOttawa
Phrags can grow quite quickly from seed although some hybrids can be weak growers. I have had a Phrag. Hanne Popow flower in 4+ years from flask and I have another made with different parents that has not bloomed yet! It is making multiple growths instead.

Speaking of water, there is an endless discussion of the best way to water Phrags. Most species grow with their roots wet. However, the water is seeping slowly, bathing the roots constantly in fresh water. The water is likely not hard (ie having a lot of salts or high conductivity) since the underlying rock type is invariably granite.

John_in_Arcadia_CA
Marilyn - I have mine sitting on carpet padding in a cafeteria tray and that is kept wet all the time. The roots go out the drainage holes and crawl along the wet padding and are covered with moss. They really seem to like it.

CJ_Orchidflowerchild
I've found growing them in a dish of water about two inches deep (rainwater) works well. If the dish has to be large I put a small air stone hooked up to an air pump for an aquarium in it to keep the water fresh, otherwise a 4" clay saucer evaporates off inside 2 or 3 days.

MarilyninOttawa
Yes, roots should be encouraged to grow vigorously but be careful not to lose any when repotting. Phrags should be generously potted and this should be done annually, either after blooming, when the roots start to emerge! (ie the plant has outgrown the container) or when new growths begin forming in spring.

Phalaequestris
Marilyn I am quite new to the world of Orchids, and am reading all kinds of literature on them. Do you have any suggestions for a easy Phrag for beginners

MarilyninOttawa
Before I get on to easy vs challenging Phrags, I will add that growing a healthy root system is almost the most important point to consider when growing Phrags or any other orchid that stores nutrients primarily in the roots. This includes Paphs of course.

art,simpsonville_sc
What sort of potting media do you suggest Marilyn?

John_in_Arcadia_CA
What if the new roots start out just as the plant begins to flower (the Sorcerer's Apprentice)? Can I cover the roots with sphagnum moss?

MarilyninOttawa
In terms of potting media, a lot depends on what is available and where you live. I have found, much to my delight, that a mix of coconut husk chunks (small) and New Zealand sphagnum moss works very well for all my plants. Some of the Phrags are naturally shy in producing roots and these must be handled with care. You can never know which seedlings will produce the most robust root system but I would strongly recommend that a beginner start with such a plant. With the vendor's permission, give the plant a little tug to see if it is well rooted. Poorly rooted plants will almost come out of the pot so take care. I have tried rockwool which some growers swear by but lost two plants in the process. You could add horticultural charcoal in pieces about the size of the husk particles (1/4-inch). The charcoal will absorb organic exudates produced by the roots as well as keeping particles from becoming too compacted.

We have to make a decision as to whether to emulate the wild habitat or to create a new habitat which has the essential characteristics which permit the plant to grow. The plant needs fresh water which is low in mineral salts. The water must always be there, fresh, never stagnant.

Jade
Wouldn't a bit of leaf mold be a good addition as a minimal top dressing? Especially on top of spongerock?

art,simpsonville_sc
When you repot do you need to keep plant at same level it was growing at or can you bury it a little. Some of mine are a little wobbly

John_in_Arcadia_CA
Art I have to bury bury mine a little as the new grow usually is high up on the old growth. It doesn't seem to hurt as the old growth usually dies back very soon anyway - buried or not.

MarilyninOttawa
Some Phrags like besseae tend to grow out of the pot. These can be set a little deeper with each repotting.

Kathy_in_N_Calif
Sometimes that can be a matter of several inches though Marilyn, where besseae is concerned. Some have tried covering the exposed root zones with moss, rather like 'air layering'. I gave up growing them because of this rangy habit.

MarilyninOttawa
Breeding hybrids with Phrag besseae can alleviate some of the problem. Speaking of Phrag besseae, its second generation hybrid, Phrag. Saint Ouen, is a beauty.

John_in_Arcadia_CA
Yes, Don Wimber doesn't grow up out of the pot so fast.

Jade
Nor does Mem Dick Clements.

MarilyninOttawa
One thing you can try is providing more light. I have noticed that Phrag. Praying Sargent used to grow out of the pot but now that it is in a south-facing window, inches from the glass but behind a curtain, the habit has been controlled.

Kathy_in_N_Calif
Marilyn, are there any ideas on the clear spots on the pouch? What purpose allowing light into the pouch? So the bee can see?

jim4eq
Maybe they are like landing lights on the runway, so the buzzy-bee knows where to land? Need a pic with a UV filter

MarilyninOttawa
Glad that you brought up the 'clear spots' aspect, Kathy. I wondered also. It is popularly believed that 'windows' give the pollinator some signal, at least in Cypripedium. But I am not so sure. I have doing a lot of work with pollinator behaviour and Cyps. They are visually attracted to enter the flower but I suspect that they are forced to exit by the flower architecture more than by windows providing light.

Getting back to the windowed pouch, The source of the structures seen in Phrag, Saint Ouen
is undoubtedly the Phrag. besseae.

Note that Phrags, contrary to some advice, really like having a lot of light. This does not mean full sun of course but they are remarkably tolerant of high light. Mine are growing toward the light which is a sure sign that they would like more.

Kathy_in_N_Calif
Marilyn, in your handout you mentioned that when phrags are found associated with rocks, the rock is granite and the water therefore is un-buffered. Am I misquoting that statement? What is it about granite that makes water un-buffered? Just that its a hard rock/substrate and doesn't dissolve?

MarilyninOttawa
Granite is a rock without carbonate. It is primarily carbonate ion which is found in limestone, marble, etc that provides the buffering capacity. Without carbonate, pH of the soil water is highly skewed to acidic by humic acids.

John_in_Arcadia_CA
What can you add to water to acidify it for plants (not just orchids)?

pecteilis_in_KY
Phosphoric acid is the usual, as in fish tanks. But a handful of peat does it in a holding tank.

MarilyninOttawa
John, some growers add phosphoric acid to their water to lower the pH. The amount of acid needed to lower the pH will depend upon the amount of buffering, ie the amount of dissolved carbonate. More carbonates, more acid. You need not be overly precise but experiment first to find out the range of buffering involved. Once buffering is overcome by acid addition, the pH will fall rapidly.

Orchidglade
In point of fact, most of the usual fertilizers are strongly acidic and control the pH of the pot, regardless of what the measured pH of the water itself is.

MarilyninOttawa
A handful of peat moss may work with some water but it will unlikely be sufficient to change the pH of hard water. In such cases, deionization is the better process to follow.

jim4eq
How important is the acidic water for phrags? In south Florida, all of our water is high calcium

Jade
Marilyn, would a modest dressing of leaf mold (maple or red oak) be a good addition in that vein?

MarilyninOttawa
Red oak leaves would provide more acidification I would think. I would be cautious with leaf mold additions especially with new plants. Let the plant get well established first.

Water acidity will affect the availability of nutrients. It is never wise to lower the pH too much. pH 5.5 should be the lowest I would suggest. I have been feeding my Phrags weakly weekly except during the dullest winter days. I have been maintaining a good temperature differential too.

Jade
I agree, I was speaking as a top dressing for established BS plants

Kathy_in_N_Calif
Doesn't the humic acid carry plant chemical 'messengers' also?

Orchidglade
They actually add lime to Florida water, which raises the measured pH of the water but paradoxically LOWERS the soluble Calcium level. There are a lot of myths about water pH many orchid growers cling to, but if anyone is interested there is a cultural article on the subject, from the standpoint of a Biochemist, on the Webpage of the COS species club, www.cosspecies.org

Tom_in_Houston
What Phrags do you most recommend for home growing? Any specific ones to avoid? I can offer cool and warm temps.

MarilyninOttawa
Here is your answer Tom! My last pic is of a species which is an easy, vigorous grower and almost always in flower. Phrag. longifolium.

Phrag longifolium is a sequential bloomer. The plant is large, vigorous and if left undivided, will produce multiple growths and even more blooms. Some color forms are quite red while athers are more green. Phrag. longifolium hybrids are equally vigorous. The purple tinge is an aberation of the scan. Sorry. It is more dark red than purple!

Tom_in_Houston
Thank you. I love the color on that by the way. Certainly one of the nicest longifoliums I have seen. You are definitely tempting me LOL

MarilyninOttawa
Phrag. Eric Young is a hybrid between longifolium and besseae. The vigor and plant size are retained, the color range is exceptional (apricot through orange and red, and the flowering remains sequential. Sorry no pic.

Well, it has been a pleasure discussing Phrags, water quality, and favorite plants with you. When growing Phrags, remember to do whatever is necessary to promote vigorous root growth. Good quality water, regular watering, bright light to what the plant can bear (varies) and yearly repotting. Make space for the giants of the genus.

Sharon_in_Indiana
Thank you Marilyn, sorry I got here late. I did want to tell you that my phrags are in two tubs, one that empties into the other by a recirculating pump. They seem to really love it. And bloom nicely for me.

MarilyninOttawa
Glad to hear of your success Sharon. Sounds like a great topic for further discussion.

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